If you’re trying to avoid buying a new remote right now, here are some extra angles that build on what @mikeappsreviewer and @caminantenocturno already covered, without rehashing all the same steps.
1. Double‑check what kind of TCL you actually have
Before going crazy with apps:
- Look at the boot logo when it powers on:
- “Roku TV” → TCL Roku
- “Google TV” or “Android TV” → TCL Google/Android
- Just “TCL” with a very basic menu → probably non‑smart or older smart
This matters, because if it’s a dumb-ish model, app control is basically a fantasy.
2. Try a cable/satellite remote you already own
Slight disagreement with leaning straight into phone apps: if you have any of these around, test them first:
- Cable box remote
- Dish / satellite remote
- An old universal remote from another TV
Program it for TCL or Roku TV codes. Often:
- Power works
- Volume works
- Input sometimes works
It’s ugly but takes 2 minutes and might solve your “stuck on wrong HDMI” problem without touching Wi‑Fi or apps.
3. Use a streaming box or console as your “remote”
If you can at least get the TV on and onto some HDMI (using the TV’s button):
- Plug in:
- Apple TV
- Fire TV / Roku stick
- PS4 / PS5 / Xbox One / Series X|S
Turn on HDMI‑CEC on the device.
What you get in practice:
- Turning on the box turns on the TV
- TV auto switches to that HDMI
- That device’s remote or controller can often control TV volume and power
This is not perfect, but for 90% of everyday use, you basically stop caring about the TV’s own remote.
4. Wired network if Wi‑Fi is a pain
@caminantenocturno mentioned Wi‑Fi a lot. I’ll be a bit contrarian: if your router is near the TV and your TCL has an Ethernet port:
- Plug TV directly to router
- Put your phone on Wi‑Fi on the same router
- Then use TVRem or the official Roku / Google TV app
Wired completely avoids:
- Weak Wi‑Fi signal
- Guest network isolation
- Router doing “smart” but annoying things
People skip Ethernet and then fight Wi‑Fi for an hour trying to get a phone remote working.
5. If you never connected the TV to network before
This is the annoying scenario: you lost the remote before setting up Wi‑Fi.
- You’ll likely have to suffer through the on‑TV button navigation once
- Use that to:
- Get into Network settings
- Connect to Wi‑Fi or Ethernet
- Only then can app‑based remotes actually see the TV
If your router has WPS and the TV supports it, use that path to avoid typing passwords with one tiny button.
6. Absolute worst‑case: it’s non‑smart or ancient
If:
- There is no Wi‑Fi option
- No Ethernet
- No “Network” menu at all
Then all the apps, TVRem, Roku app, Google TV app, etc. are useless. At that point your only realistic options are:
- Buy a dirt‑cheap universal IR remote that lists “TCL”
- Or use an old Android phone with an IR blaster and a generic IR remote app
If you’re in this bucket, I wouldn’t overthink it. A $10 physical remote beats wrestling with the TV’s single button like some cursed minigame.
7. Minimal action plan
- Turn on TV using its physical button and confirm if it’s smart and has network options.
- If smart:
- Connect it to network (Wi‑Fi or Ethernet).
- Then pick an app: TVRem, Roku app, or Google TV app.
- If not smart:
- Don’t waste time on phone apps. Grab a cheap universal IR remote.
- If you have a console/streaming box, enable HDMI‑CEC and let that remote basically “be” your TV remote.
You probably can avoid buying the exact original TCL remote, but in some cases you’ll still need some kind of IR remote in the mix.